Chasing The Unicorn
A lot can be said for chasing perfect conditions. It becomes an anxiety-filled complex that more often than not ends with disappointment. This endless pursuit is usually expensive, a waste of time, and you usually end up surfing less. Do as I say, not as I do. I have been known to be a little obsessive when it comes to finding surf. These past few swells I’ve focused more on just surfing fun waves with close friends. The end results are great sessions with very few people around and lots of actual surfing. – Logan Landry
See Surf, Surf!
If there is a lesson to learn in Nova Scotia, it’s that you can’t trust a forecast and the stars rarely line up the way you think they will. The secret to success is to have plenty of time on your side, be willing to drive unlimited hours and be stoked to surf whatever nature gives you.
This day started with a plan. Logan and I were out the door at 530am to drive a couple hours to pick up our friend Scotty Sherin and head to a beach that might be just big enough to have a play and kill time while we wait for the swell to kick in. Then when it kicks in, we will drive another couple hours to surf a real wave that the stars are supposed to line up for.
The beach was fun, and before long, just as forecasted it started to pick up. Time to leave the beach and start motoring to the next wave. With a quick pizza stop for the road, we were off. Our drive happened to go past another wave that was completely off our radar as the swell and wind forecast was calling too small and a bad direction. As we drove past, we pretty much had to slam on the breaks. “Hang on a minute, that looks kind of sick”. We didn’t have long to make a decision, it’s winter, there isn’t that much light in the day. The waves looked pretty fun, but there was a slight devil wind and if it all lines up at the other spot there would be proper tubes.
We agreed that although we could score something special at the other spot, sometimes when you see good surf, you should just suit up and go. I mean it’s a left point, its overhead, and there’s one guy out, not too bad of a situation.
The end result was a session I’ll remember, not just for how fun the waves were, but because it was shared with my buddy Logan and one other friend who was stoked to finally have someone to share it with.
We heard later that our original target never quite lined up and we hadn’t missed anything special. The swell showed up but the wind never turned. If we’d gone there we probably wouldn’t have surfed.
We hadn’t surfed anything particularly special either, but we couldn’t have cared less. We surfed countless waves, hacked and schwacked our little hearts out and were completely exhausted. – Shannon Brown
Images – Scotty Sherin